At this point, I sit down, and start measuring EVERYTHING.  And writing it all down.  I made copies of of the critical pages of various manuals and put it all in one spiral bound book.  This allows me to have everything I need in one book, and not worry about ruining my master copy with the oily fingers.

Check all journals for spec, roundness, and taper.  Check all pistons, pins, and sleeves for specs, roundness, and taper.  Check all piston rings and grooves for specs, end gaps, and side clearances.  Check all piston rod bearing clearances with Plastigage.

I had a shop press out the sleeves, and hot tanked the block and head. and other cast parts.  They also magnafluxed it to check for cracks.  They cleaned the intake and exhaust manifold surfaces for mating.  I lapped the valves myself with an autoshop valve grinder.  HINT: Take a small engine repair course at your local college and use all their equipment for working on yours. 
I didn't plan it that way, it was an accidental bonus.

Special thanks to Mike and Penny at MacDonald Machinery in South Bend, Indiana. 
They were exceptional at getting me many parts, very quickly - AWESOME SERVICE!!!

ALSO...  JC (a retired Case Dealer who helps folks find parts when they need them - as a side job).  If you need anything, get a hold of him on http://www.ytmag.com/case/wwwboard1.html or I'd be happy to let him know you're looking for something (not sure if he'd want his email on this site).

NOTE:
A machine shop is run by people (that can make mistakes) that are running a business and might be really busy.  Nobody pays attention to detail as much as you can.  The machine job did an awesome job machining my crankshaft journals (which I measured each journal in four spots to check before and after) but I found they didn't press my front and crank seals in to spec.  I had them redo it with the specs.  Don't depend on somebody to care as much as you do.  Also CASE dealers can supply most parts at competitive prices but I bought my camshaft bushings from the machine shop for $45 (instead of $180 from CASE).  Other than that, the CASE dealer parts were great (the machine shop tip came from JC).

The following set of photos represents 12 straight hours of work by myself.  I pulled an all-nighter in the garage and took it from just a painted block on a bench, to a stand mounted motor block near completion.  I now just need to install three more cylinders and I'm done the block.  Haven't started the head yet (still waiting for a replacement).  I installed the crankshaft with new bushings, the camshaft, full front timing assembly (with timing gears, governor, pump, and pulley), disassembled, checked and installed the oil pump, and installed one piston (including checking end gaps and side clearances of the new rings).  Also painted a few other parts to the side, and even installed the dip stick (wow!).  Yep -12 hours.  The I went to my son's hockey game and then to work!

OKAY.....   well I last touched this tractor in December, and the cracked magnafluxed head meant I had to wait for a replacement.  BUYER BEWARE!!!  The guy that sold me the original engine (see the filthy thing up top) couldn't find me a replacement head, and then stopped answering my calls and emails altogether.  So $600 clams later, I have a replacement head, and a real bitter taste in my mouth.  But, I'm now back at my engine in April...

When I started this thing it was research on the internet first, then some books.  I bought the Case Shop Manual, Parts Manual, and also manuals for my loader and backhoe.  I then bought a couple books on engine rebuilding (mentioned earlier).  I read one cover to cover and it set me up in the frame of mind I needed to do this thing properly without frustration.   I did buy some tools.  I bought an engine stand but not a hoist.  I borrowed a chain fall from the ceiling to get it on and off the stand.  I bought a valve spring compressor, a ridge reamer (which was recommended to buy but I didn't even use), ring compressor for installing pistons in final assembly, ring installer/remover (which is critical since installing by hand can easily break your rings as I learned), a honer (which was a waste since the machine shop does a much better job), micrometers and telescoping gauges, digital caliper, dial caliper and magnetic base stand.  I didn't buy good-for-life stuff as I normally do when buying tools.  I bought good-enough tools.  They didn't sacrifice the quality of the job.  I just couldn't use them to make a living with.  The tools were generally cheap and I bought many specialty items on eBay, some items at the NAPA store, and found this neat website with awesome prices for automotive tools.  I also bought some tools that I might have been able to borrow but that I knew I could use again anyway like a 3/4" drive impact socket set for example.  So again, I spent more than planned on for tools, but it was still cheaper than paying somebody else to do the work, and how else could I double check the machine shop's work without a micrometer, or know for sure if it even needed some work.